Anywhere Everywhere

Carmel by the Sea, California was one of America's first artist colonies and gathered momentum after the 1906 earthquake had many of San Francisco's artists fleeing to the beauty and inspiration of Carmel. But it wasn't until 1924 when Hugh Comstock built the above 280 square foot cottage for his wife's doll collection did the town take on the fairytale feel that it's known for today.

It's interesting to note that Comstock had no previous building/architectural experience and used no regular tools while he hand built the cottage. He simply had vision combined with will and away he went. The results were charming and extraordinary which made the other local artists crave the romance and whimsy he had created. Afterall, artists don't want to live in boxes - especially not in a sea side forest town. So locals began to ask Comstock to build their houses and he obliged; building dozens of charming homes around Carmel which helped create a feeling of magic that people from around the world now come to see.

Land was originally sold extremely cheaply and homes were built without great expense. Now these homes are worth millions (the average home sale here being about $4 million U.S.) but they began with simple intentions by people who wanted to live somewhere beautiful, have their home reflect their dreams and create a unique way to live and work. A lot of thought when into the design of not only the homes, but the community that lived here, the streets, the shops and the future of the town. Urban planning 1920's style.

Cottage Living Magazine has a wonderful article on the Comstock cottages - the physical issue has a map so you can talking a walking tour which I highly recommend doing. It might just get you rethinking home design - that character, whimsy and beauty isn't just for those with A-List architects or bazillions. People once did it with little and it can be done again (for of course a little more!). It just takes an idea, some creativity, and work. But the results? Pretty spectacular I think.

Since living in a vacation home for a couple of months in Carmel by the Sea, California I'm slowly learning more about the quirks of this town. Here are are a few:

There are no street addresses. That's right - no street addresses. Instead of being identified by government issued numbers, homes are identified either by their cottage name (which owners can choose) or by description (SW Corner of San Carlos and 5th, green house three down with the big red door). Explaining this to UPS or places that do not accept P.O. Box addresses can be challenging. It does, however, encourage one to know their streets, neighbours, houses and surroundings so they can explain how to get around town.

There are no street lights. At all. Which means it's very, very dark, especially in winter. Not a little shady but pitch black. This affords the glory of seeing the stars and when the full moon is out, the town glows. But walking when dark can be daunting - so carry a flashlight.

If you're 18 or under, there is a 10PM curfew. When I told a friend he replied in cheek, "It's to keep those pesky kids of people's lawns!" But, there are no lawns here - another law. It's all Xerophytic Landscaping; natural landscaping that doesn't require watering (although cactus and any other plants that could cause physical harm are highly discouraged!). It also helps to keep the town feeling like a forest and full of magic.

Except for Ocean Ave and a couple of streets around it which have shops, there are no sidewalks. Again to add to the forest feel (Carmel was the first city in California to employ a full-time Forrester) but also a reason why if you were certain high heels, you'll need a permit! The city requires this because the uneven roads can be dangerous in towering shoes and they don't want the liability.

It is very, very quiet. Living four blocks from the beach, I can still hear the waves crashing against the shore. Coming from Los Angeles, it took me awhile to realise it wasn't the highway.

The town is only one square mile in size with 1 dog for every 3 humans. But you'll never be bothered by dogs or their business - it's very clean. Most people here believe that those who take their dogs out will be responsible (and they are). So much so that lots of restaurants (including gourmet) not only allow dogs, but have dogs menus.

Almost half the population is single but most visitors are couples. It's about a 50/50 split between men and women although the average age is 54.

The city began as one of America's first artist colonies (most of whom were women) and the names of famous artists in residence is long. However, most of those who founded the city couldn't afford to live here today - the median home price is $1.8 million. If you include 17 Mile Drive in that, the median home price goes up to$8.4!

The Forest Theatre still provides outside live theatre, however, because rent is so high the original movie theatre is no longer in operation. The only place to see movies now is in one of the local banks. There's a Plasma TV with seats. However, they only play Doris Day or Clint Eastwood movies.

It doesn't matter what night it is, the town will most likely be quiet and closed after 6PM. I've been asked a lot by tourists "what's going on tonight?" If it's Tuesday it's locals night at the Cypress Hotel. Other than that don't expect much. People come for the scenery not the scene.